http://xpress.sfsu.edu/archives/arts/008485.html

Punk Meets High Art At The de Young

by Mayra Martinez, staff writer
April 29, 2007 12:48 PM

The normally hallowed halls of the de Young Museum reverberated with the spirit of rebellion, punk and innovative fashion last Friday night for the second annual SF State College Night at the de Young Museum.

The museum's modern design and cool, neutral tones served as the backdrop for the kaleidoscope of brilliant colors and outrageous and experimental student designs and artwork in "Cutting Across the Social Fabric: a tribute to Vivienne Westwood."

The event was held in conjunction with the museum's current textile exhibit, "Vivienne Westwood: 36 Years in Fashion" and also featured the work of students of the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, City College of San Francisco and the San Francisco Art Institute.

Spread throughout the museum, the night featured student work inspired by the legendary British fashion designer often called an iconoclast for the incendiary statements her clothes have always made.

A crowd of fashionable young things took in the intriguing designs and enjoyed music and cocktails and mingled with models still in show attire in the museum's lofty main court.

"I'm glad that fashion is finally being treated as art," said Darrin Goodness, 23, a former SF State student.

The highlight of the evening came in the form of a 30-minute fashion show, “Fashion Radicals,” where 20 student designers presented one or two audacious and bold designs each and a gallery art exhibition, both Westwood-inspired.

"There were some very innovative designs, I was really impressed, it’s new, it’s different, it’s funky," said Victor Karamalis, who flew in from Florida to see the show and recruit designers for his apparel company.

The program also featured a screening of a film by SF State cinema department students, "The King Ludd Army," and ended with an exhilarating capoeira dance performance by the San Francisco company Sul da Bahia.

"The event this year is really exciting because of the fashion show, which of course was so fitting with Vivienne Westwood," said Robert Melton, SF State College Night curator and SF State museum studies graduate student.

In its first and only U.S. showing, the international exhibit spans Westwood's career from 1970 to 2006.

Westwood attended a preview for the March 3 opening of her show that runs until June 10. Radiating a youthful nonchalance, in her ever cool and casual British cadence, the designer, 65, shared her passion for art, history and exploration, both creative and technical.

Against the gallery's dark gray walls, each of the exhibit’s 150 outfits stood as a gleaming example of Westwood's unique perspective and execution.

“She is an inspiration to everyone by showing that you can be 65 and still rock the world,” said SF State student designer Lareina Hillseth, 26.

Westwood began her career as a designer making clothes for the very first punks tearing out of London in the ’70s. As her designs evolved, they grew to include her trademark take on the traditional 18th century corset, and inventive cutting and slashing techniques.

For the fashion show part of the evening, the 269-person capacity auditorium proved to be not big enough for the throngs of people that arrived, and the de Young staff had to turn people away.

"I thought it was fantastic, it's great to see how people were inspired by Westwood but turned it into something new and different in their own style," said Clochette Nguyen, 29, who works as merchandiser for Banana Republic.

Models in mohawks and over-the-top bouffants and theatrical makeup strutted down the cherry-wood floors in everything from a black vinyl corset and black bondage dress to full ball gowns with bustles and elaborate tails.

The spectrum of colors ranged from neutral and black to cerulean blues, burnt oranges and bright yellows, red and blue plaid.

"It was such a success, I'm really overwhelmed by it all,” said Melton, who recruited professionals for the sound, music and lighting.

The lower museum level featured the works of textile students created with use of photography, oil and acrylic on canvas, sculpture and mixed-media installations.

Each piece listed the specific Westwood influence, like her anti-war stance or her signature flame-colored hair and ranged from uniquely crafted hats to smaller works constructed with plastic, wood, condoms and bottle caps.

"This is more my kind of art, done by college students, and it is so much more interesting to me than just looking at a painting," said University of San Francisco nursing student Marianne Monta, 22.

"It is so exciting to be here at the de Young," said apparel design student Esther Bennett, 30, standing next to the strapless dress made of vintage brocade she designed.

"I used to come here when I was little, and I never thought I'd be here on the other side" Bennett said.

For the de Young, the night purposely coincided with their "Friday Night at the de Young" series, where the museum stays open late for music, cocktails and special events geared for the arts.

"We intentionally make sure to include college students in our program," said Renee Baldocchi, manager of Public Programs at the de Young. "They are a very important part of our population."

Toward the end of the festivities, Ray Gin, 31, the SF State student and fashion show coordinator who successfully pitched the idea to Melton, finally sat down. Gin, who designed two looks for the show, spent two months recruiting designers and organizing.

"I would hopefully like to be able to describe the clothes tonight as SFSU," said Gin.

"The design program at State is a fledgling program,” said Gin, “hopefully events like this will help SFSU develop its own design sensibilities and character."

» E-mail Mayra Martinez @ mayramz@sfsu.edu